Difference between revisions of "Jalenko Burn-out Furnace"

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|certification = no
 
|certification = no
 
|hackable = no
 
|hackable = no
|model = Jalenko Furnace Model ???
+
|model = Jalenko Model IFC
 
|serial = ?
 
|serial = ?
 
|arrived = 2013
 
|arrived = 2013
 
|doesitwork = yes
 
|doesitwork = yes
 
|contact = Eric Stein
 
|contact = Eric Stein
|where = hot metals
+
|where = Removed
 
|value = $70
 
|value = $70
 +
|hostarea = Hot Metals
 
}}
 
}}
  
'''This tool is not known to have an accurate temperature guage. The guage moves, and it seems mostly right, but it hasn't been verified precise.'''
+
 
 +
 
 +
==Operation==
 +
*Ensure that burn out tray is in place
 +
*Plug in
 +
*Turn Dial clockwise past off
 +
*Select desired temperature (0 is hottest, 10 is coldest)
 +
 
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
|Setting
 +
|Approximate Temperature (deg C)
 +
|-
 +
|10
 +
|200
 +
|-
 +
|9.2
 +
|370
 +
|-
 +
|6.2
 +
|750
 +
|-
 +
|6.8
 +
|700
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
==Notes==
 +
*This thing holds a temperature pretty well, once you get it dialed in it stays rock steady
 +
*There is no temperature probe at the moment. There is a hole on the back which angles upward and is ~6-7mm diameter.
 +
*Maximum temperature has not be assessed. The above table has most useful values for casting with Kerr Satin Cast 20 investment in our size flasks.  
 +
 
  
 
== To-Do ==
 
== To-Do ==
  
* Check that the guage is correct (use an IR thermometer or a thermocouple?).
 
 
* Make some graphs of how fast it will typically heat up over time given different settings and flasks.
 
* Make some graphs of how fast it will typically heat up over time given different settings and flasks.
 
* Get new ceramic drip tray (current one is cracked)
 
* Get new ceramic drip tray (current one is cracked)
 
* Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot.
 
* Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot.
 
** This would be cool to do with anodized aluminum in the laser --[[User:Dbever|Dbever]] ([[User talk:Dbever|talk]]) 22:19, 11 June 2014 (UTC)
 
** This would be cool to do with anodized aluminum in the laser --[[User:Dbever|Dbever]] ([[User talk:Dbever|talk]]) 22:19, 11 June 2014 (UTC)
 +
*Hack together some type of replacement guage
 +
**The old guage was connected to some type of ceramic temperature probe of unknown variety and was disintegrating. If we can get the same type probe it may work again, but more useful would be a digital read out
  
If you find proof that hte guage is not correct, then you should (if you are capable of such) hack it to be accurate. I hear that ebay sells guages. I think.
 
  
[[Category:Metalworking]]
 
[[Category:Hotmetals]]
 
 
[[Category:Metal Casting]]
 
[[Category:Metal Casting]]
 +
[[Category:Hot Metals]]

Revision as of 10:21, 7 January 2021


Jalenko Burn-out Furnace
Jalenko.jpg
Owner/Loaner PS:One
Serial Number ?
Make/Model Jalenko Model IFC
Arrival Date 2013
Usability yes
Contact Eric Stein
Where Removed
Authorization Needed no
Hackable no
Estimated Value $70
Host Area Hot Metals


Jalenko Burn-out Furnace Area: Hot Metals https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org/wiki/Jalenko_Burn-out_Furnace




Operation

  • Ensure that burn out tray is in place
  • Plug in
  • Turn Dial clockwise past off
  • Select desired temperature (0 is hottest, 10 is coldest)
Setting Approximate Temperature (deg C)
10 200
9.2 370
6.2 750
6.8 700

Notes

  • This thing holds a temperature pretty well, once you get it dialed in it stays rock steady
  • There is no temperature probe at the moment. There is a hole on the back which angles upward and is ~6-7mm diameter.
  • Maximum temperature has not be assessed. The above table has most useful values for casting with Kerr Satin Cast 20 investment in our size flasks.


To-Do

  • Make some graphs of how fast it will typically heat up over time given different settings and flasks.
  • Get new ceramic drip tray (current one is cracked)
  • Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot.
    • This would be cool to do with anodized aluminum in the laser --Dbever (talk) 22:19, 11 June 2014 (UTC)
  • Hack together some type of replacement guage
    • The old guage was connected to some type of ceramic temperature probe of unknown variety and was disintegrating. If we can get the same type probe it may work again, but more useful would be a digital read out