Difference between revisions of "MakerBot Replicator"

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(Loading a file in the printer)
(Slice Your Model: updated for MakerWare, which is actually pretty decent these days)
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You'll need to turn your 3D model into toolpaths that the printer understands. This involves "slicing" your model into a bunch of layers. To do this, we'll need some software.  
 
You'll need to turn your 3D model into toolpaths that the printer understands. This involves "slicing" your model into a bunch of layers. To do this, we'll need some software.  
  
For the Replicator, it's best to stick with [http://replicat.org ReplicatorG]. There are plenty of other options which you can try if you're adventurous.
+
For the Replicator, it's best to stick with [http://replicat.org MakerWare]. There are plenty of other options which you can try if you're adventurous, but MakerWare has been developed by MakerBot to provide the easiest possible experience.  
 
 
On the menu bar, click on "Machine" and make sure you're set for the MakerBot Replicator Dual Extruder.
 
  
 
#Drag and drop your STL into the model environment
 
#Drag and drop your STL into the model environment
 
#Use the "Move", "Rotate", and "Scale" functions to alter your model as needed (remember to click "View" before trying to rotate the view again)
 
#Use the "Move", "Rotate", and "Scale" functions to alter your model as needed (remember to click "View" before trying to rotate the view again)
#Click "Generate GCode" (if you've altered your STL you'll be prompted to save it)
+
#Click on your model, and select your extruder under the "Object" menu on the bottom left (make sure to use the right extruder while the left one isn't working)
#Select the Replicator slicing defaults for your first print and make sure you select the correct extruder and support setting (see note below)
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#Click "Make"
#Click "Generate GCode" and wait from 5 to 500 minutes for the Skeinforge to do its thing
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#Select "Export to a File", and export for "The Replicator (Dual)"
#Once the gcode is done, you can estimate the time your part will take to print from the "Gcode" menu
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#The 3 default profiles (low, standard, high) are a good place to start (but keep in mind that the "high" setting will take much longer to slice)
#Last step! You'll need to build your gcode to a .S3G file which you'll be putting on an SD card (make sure the name isn't too long or the Replicator won't read it)
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#Make sure "Raft" is selected
 +
#If your model has significant bridges or overhang, make sure "Supports" is also selected
  
====Choosing the right gcode settings====
 
//TODO
 
===== About Support =====
 
//TODO
 
 
===Loading a file in the printer===
 
===Loading a file in the printer===
  

Revision as of 22:12, 2 July 2013


MakerBot Replicator
Owner/Loaner PS:One
Serial Number 8044
Make/Model Makerbot
Arrival Date October 2012
Usability WORKING
Contact Colin Parsons
Where 2nd Floor
Authorization Needed NO
Hackable NO
Estimated Value $2000
Host Area {{{hostarea}}}


MakerBot Replicator Area: {{{hostarea}}} https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org/MakerBot_Replicator



STATUS

3/25/2013: The Replicator is temporarily decommissioned as a result of a static discharge incident which happened yesterday. It was lame. The damage has been assessed (a blown voltage regulator) and a replacement part has been ordered. The machine should be ready to use very soon. Many thanks to Dan D and Jeremy BP for their help troubleshooting.

4/2/2013: Fresh chip was installed tonight, but didn't fix the problem. Started a support ticket with MakerBot.

4/4/2013: MakerBot shipping us a new board ASAP

5/9/2013; After "manufacturing delays" and "miscommunications with the shipping department", the board has finally arrived!

They also sent us a new X-axis endstop cable and said "Remember, it's absolutely critical to replace the X axis endstop cable *before* replacing the Mightyboard itself!"

Replicator X-Axis Endstop Cable Replacement

Replicator MightyBoard Replacement

How To Use

If you get stuck and can't find the information you need on this page, google is your friend. So is [1]. There's a lot of information on this machine out there, so don't be afraid to do some research. It'll be fun. Plus, you can come back here and contribute your findings.

Get a Thing to print

Download something from Thingiverse, or some other website, or design a Thing using 3D modeling software. // list some free 3D CAD programs

Your Thing should be a "watertight", solid model in STL format (binary or ASCII, doesn't matter).

Slice Your Model

You'll need to turn your 3D model into toolpaths that the printer understands. This involves "slicing" your model into a bunch of layers. To do this, we'll need some software.

For the Replicator, it's best to stick with MakerWare. There are plenty of other options which you can try if you're adventurous, but MakerWare has been developed by MakerBot to provide the easiest possible experience.

  1. Drag and drop your STL into the model environment
  2. Use the "Move", "Rotate", and "Scale" functions to alter your model as needed (remember to click "View" before trying to rotate the view again)
  3. Click on your model, and select your extruder under the "Object" menu on the bottom left (make sure to use the right extruder while the left one isn't working)
  4. Click "Make"
  5. Select "Export to a File", and export for "The Replicator (Dual)"
  6. The 3 default profiles (low, standard, high) are a good place to start (but keep in mind that the "high" setting will take much longer to slice)
  7. Make sure "Raft" is selected
  8. If your model has significant bridges or overhang, make sure "Supports" is also selected

Loading a file in the printer

  1. Turn on the machine using the switch on the back
  2. Put in the SD card
  3. From the main menu, select "Build from SD"
  4. Select your file

The machine will now detect its limits, and start preheating the extruder

The SD Card doesn't work, what should i do?

  1. The machine is designed to take SD cards 2GB or smaller that are formatted with a FAT16 file system.
  2. Check the file system on the card you are using.
  3. for MAC OSX there are instructions here: [2]
  4. if that doesn't work, there is a formatting utility from SD that can be downloaded here: [3]

Tips and Tweaks

Make sure the build platform is leveled

Part not sticking?

After making sure the build platform is leveled, a good solution is to increase the temperature of the build platform. In the "gcode" tab in ReplicatorG, change the text to set the bed temperature to 118ºC instead of 110º. There will be a line near the top of the file like this:

M109 S110 T0 (set HBP temperature)

Change it to:

M109 S118 T0 (set HBP temperature)

It might also say T1 instead of T0, but the important thing is that it is set to 118º. Save the file once you've made the changes, then proceed to save it as an S3G for the SD card.

Preheat while slicing your model