Difference between revisions of "Screen Printing Workshop first test"

From Pumping Station One
Jump to navigation Jump to search
m (5 revisions)
 
m (Robot: Cosmetic changes)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
[[Category:Member Projects]]
 
 
== Intro ==
 
== Intro ==
  
On February 18, 2009 I made my first attempt at creating a screen using Diazo photo emulsion from Speedball. Details to follow. --[[User:Nathaner|Nathan]]
+
On February 18, 2009 I made my first attempt at creating a screen using Diazo photo emulsion from Speedball. Details to follow. --[[User:Nathaner|Nathan]]
  
 
== Preparation ==
 
== Preparation ==
Line 12: Line 11:
 
* Speedball 10" squeegee
 
* Speedball 10" squeegee
 
* NOTE: It would have been good to invest in a scoop coater as well
 
* NOTE: It would have been good to invest in a scoop coater as well
* Flat, heavy materials. I went with ''Flash MX Bible'', ''Visual Basic 6 Black Book'', ''SAMS Visual C++ 6'', ''SAMS Teach Yourself LAMP'' & ''Basic Electronics'' text book.
+
* Flat, heavy materials. I went with ''Flash MX Bible'', ''Visual Basic 6 Black Book'', ''SAMS Visual C++ 6'', ''SAMS Teach Yourself LAMP'' & ''Basic Electronics'' text book.
 
* Clothes you're not worried about ruining
 
* Clothes you're not worried about ruining
 
* Patience
 
* Patience
Line 18: Line 17:
 
== Application ==
 
== Application ==
  
* Diazo photo emulsion kit requires mixing sensitizer (Black) into the base emulsion (Blue) to activate. Do so and mix vigorously (Resulting mixture turns green.)
+
* Diazo photo emulsion kit requires mixing sensitizer (Black) into the base emulsion (Blue) to activate. Do so and mix vigorously (Resulting mixture turns green.)
 
** Directions state emulsion can last for up to 4 months when stored in refrigerator.
 
** Directions state emulsion can last for up to 4 months when stored in refrigerator.
* Carefully applied emulsion to both sides of screen with Speedball squeegee. This is where I could have made less mess with a scoop coater.
+
* Carefully applied emulsion to both sides of screen with Speedball squeegee. This is where I could have made less mess with a scoop coater.
* After checking that both sides were coated as evenly as possible I '''IMMEDIATELY''' took the screen to dry in a dark arrid place. In my case I used my oven (no heat necessary). According to instructions, dry the screen with the flat side down, but elevated.
+
* After checking that both sides were coated as evenly as possible I '''IMMEDIATELY''' took the screen to dry in a dark arrid place. In my case I used my oven (no heat necessary). According to instructions, dry the screen with the flat side down, but elevated.
 
** screen appeared to be perfectly dry in 1 hour, could have gone with 45 minutes probably.
 
** screen appeared to be perfectly dry in 1 hour, could have gone with 45 minutes probably.
* Do not expose screen to light until you are ready for printing. This is why I need to build a drying box.
+
* Do not expose screen to light until you are ready for printing. This is why I need to build a drying box.
  
 
== Exposure ==
 
== Exposure ==
  
* I burned the screen for 15 minutes, checked it, uneducated guess is that it needs more time to expose. Check again in 15 more minutes. (10:34 PM)
+
* I burned the screen for 15 minutes, checked it, uneducated guess is that it needs more time to expose. Check again in 15 more minutes. (10:34 PM)
 
** Now is a good time to note that I should have attached my positive to the screen so when I checked it the alignment wouldn't get messed up.
 
** Now is a good time to note that I should have attached my positive to the screen so when I checked it the alignment wouldn't get messed up.
* I decided to let it stay for another 30 that way if it overexposed I would have a high point of reference. From what little experience I have it doesn't seem to have changed much. The emulsion basically just gets ''slightly'' more transparent.
+
* I decided to let it stay for another 30 that way if it overexposed I would have a high point of reference. From what little experience I have it doesn't seem to have changed much. The emulsion basically just gets ''slightly'' more transparent.
* After 45 minutes I pulled the screen off the light and washed out the print areas with my high pressure spray nozzle. It takes a minute or two for the areas to start clearing out (I was worried) but then slowly they will empty out.
+
* After 45 minutes I pulled the screen off the light and washed out the print areas with my high pressure spray nozzle. It takes a minute or two for the areas to start clearing out (I was worried) but then slowly they will empty out.
 
* Letting screen dry completely will I prepare my kitchen table for test prints.
 
* Letting screen dry completely will I prepare my kitchen table for test prints.
  
 
== Result ==
 
== Result ==
  
[http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3503/3292457236_d59f36e353.jpg?v=0 My first custom shirt]<br>
+
[http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3503/3292457236_d59f36e353.jpg?v=0 My first custom shirt]<br />
 
[http://flickr.com/photos/nathaner/tags/screenprintingtest/ Full set on Flickr]
 
[http://flickr.com/photos/nathaner/tags/screenprintingtest/ Full set on Flickr]
  
  
Came out way better than I could have imagined. Only a few things to note:<br>
+
Came out way better than I could have imagined. Only a few things to note:<br />
* The color blends into shirt fabric too much. This isn't so bad on light colored shirts, but on dark/black it's nearly impossible to see. I'll have to research further on types of ink to use (went with water solvable for this attempt) and step up to multi-color prints at some point.
+
* The color blends into shirt fabric too much. This isn't so bad on light colored shirts, but on dark/black it's nearly impossible to see. I'll have to research further on types of ink to use (went with water solvable for this attempt) and step up to multi-color prints at some point.
 
* A finer screen mesh, which could be a little more expensive, would yield better results on firmer surfaces like paper.
 
* A finer screen mesh, which could be a little more expensive, would yield better results on firmer surfaces like paper.
 
* DEFINITELY need to learn how to stretch my own screens for saving cost.
 
* DEFINITELY need to learn how to stretch my own screens for saving cost.
* For future screen burns, I'm thinking of incorporating some kind of test pattern in the corner or my screens that I will mask off at printing time. This will make it easier to check the progress of exposure without compromising the artwork.
+
* For future screen burns, I'm thinking of incorporating some kind of test pattern in the corner or my screens that I will mask off at printing time. This will make it easier to check the progress of exposure without compromising the artwork.
 +
 
 +
[[Category:Member Projects]]

Latest revision as of 00:28, 18 March 2014

Intro

On February 18, 2009 I made my first attempt at creating a screen using Diazo photo emulsion from Speedball. Details to follow. --Nathan

Preparation

Materials:

  • Lightbox (with 6 20 watt daylight fluorescent bulbs, distance from screen: ~7"
  • 12"x10" Dick Blick screen #94708 (upc:651032 947087)
  • Speedball Diazo photo emulsion kit
  • Speedball 10" squeegee
  • NOTE: It would have been good to invest in a scoop coater as well
  • Flat, heavy materials. I went with Flash MX Bible, Visual Basic 6 Black Book, SAMS Visual C++ 6, SAMS Teach Yourself LAMP & Basic Electronics text book.
  • Clothes you're not worried about ruining
  • Patience

Application

  • Diazo photo emulsion kit requires mixing sensitizer (Black) into the base emulsion (Blue) to activate. Do so and mix vigorously (Resulting mixture turns green.)
    • Directions state emulsion can last for up to 4 months when stored in refrigerator.
  • Carefully applied emulsion to both sides of screen with Speedball squeegee. This is where I could have made less mess with a scoop coater.
  • After checking that both sides were coated as evenly as possible I IMMEDIATELY took the screen to dry in a dark arrid place. In my case I used my oven (no heat necessary). According to instructions, dry the screen with the flat side down, but elevated.
    • screen appeared to be perfectly dry in 1 hour, could have gone with 45 minutes probably.
  • Do not expose screen to light until you are ready for printing. This is why I need to build a drying box.

Exposure

  • I burned the screen for 15 minutes, checked it, uneducated guess is that it needs more time to expose. Check again in 15 more minutes. (10:34 PM)
    • Now is a good time to note that I should have attached my positive to the screen so when I checked it the alignment wouldn't get messed up.
  • I decided to let it stay for another 30 that way if it overexposed I would have a high point of reference. From what little experience I have it doesn't seem to have changed much. The emulsion basically just gets slightly more transparent.
  • After 45 minutes I pulled the screen off the light and washed out the print areas with my high pressure spray nozzle. It takes a minute or two for the areas to start clearing out (I was worried) but then slowly they will empty out.
  • Letting screen dry completely will I prepare my kitchen table for test prints.

Result

My first custom shirt
Full set on Flickr


Came out way better than I could have imagined. Only a few things to note:

  • The color blends into shirt fabric too much. This isn't so bad on light colored shirts, but on dark/black it's nearly impossible to see. I'll have to research further on types of ink to use (went with water solvable for this attempt) and step up to multi-color prints at some point.
  • A finer screen mesh, which could be a little more expensive, would yield better results on firmer surfaces like paper.
  • DEFINITELY need to learn how to stretch my own screens for saving cost.
  • For future screen burns, I'm thinking of incorporating some kind of test pattern in the corner or my screens that I will mask off at printing time. This will make it easier to check the progress of exposure without compromising the artwork.