Difference between revisions of "User:Andrewvaughan/SNES-in-a-Controller"
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| + | {{DISPLAYTITLE:<span style="position:absolute; top: -9999px;">User:Andrewvaughan/</span>SNES-in-a-Controller}} | ||
{{Tutorial | {{Tutorial | ||
| name=SNES-in-a-Controller | | name=SNES-in-a-Controller | ||
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| date = April 26, 2017 | | date = April 26, 2017 | ||
| est_time = 30 Minutes | | est_time = 30 Minutes | ||
| − | | est_cost = ~$ | + | | est_cost = ~$40 |
| in_development = Yes | | in_development = Yes | ||
| is_project = Yes | | is_project = Yes | ||
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! Cost | ! Cost | ||
|- | |- | ||
| − | | [https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero-w/ Raspberry Pi Zero (or Raspberry Pi Zero | + | | [https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero-w/ Raspberry Pi Zero W] (or Raspberry Pi Zero) |
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $10.00 | | style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $10.00 | ||
|- | |- | ||
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| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $1.40 | | style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $1.40 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| − | | [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1578 | + | | [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1578 500mAh 3.7v Lithium Ion Polymer Battery with 2-Pin JST-PH Connector] |
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $7.95 | | style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $7.95 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| − | | [https://www.adafruit.com/product/ | + | | [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1944 Powerboost 500 Charger Breakout Board] |
| − | | style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $ | + | | style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $14.95 |
|- | |- | ||
| [https://www.adafruit.com/product/805 Breadboard-Friendly SPDT Slide Switch] | | [https://www.adafruit.com/product/805 Breadboard-Friendly SPDT Slide Switch] | ||
| Line 44: | Line 45: | ||
|- | |- | ||
! Total | ! Total | ||
| − | ! style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $ | + | ! style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $42.15 |
|} | |} | ||
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| [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]] | | [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]] | ||
|- | |- | ||
| − | | | + | | 22AWG Wire |
| − | | [[:Category: | + | | [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]] |
|- | |- | ||
| − | | Velcro Tape | + | | Velcro Tape (or Hot Glue Gun) |
| TBD | | TBD | ||
|- | |- | ||
| Line 71: | Line 72: | ||
| Everywhere | | Everywhere | ||
|} | |} | ||
| − | |||
== Steps == | == Steps == | ||
Latest revision as of 22:35, 27 April 2017
 |
This project is currently in development and should not be currently considered complete. Contact the project owner for more information. |
 | |
| Creator | Andrew Vaughan |
|---|---|
| Version | 1.0 |
| Date | April 26, 2017 |
| Estimated Time | 30 Minutes |
| Estimated Cost | ~$40 |
With the size of gaming devices and development boards becoming smaller and smaller, it was only a matter of time before someone put a console inside the controller. Using a Raspberry Pi Zero, a standard USB SNES Controller, and a few extra parts, you can make yourself a portable, rechargeable gaming emulator, self-contained in its own controller.
What You'll Need
Parts
| Part | Cost |
|---|---|
| Raspberry Pi Zero W (or Raspberry Pi Zero) | $10.00 |
| USB SNES Controller | $6.90 |
| MicroHDMI to HDMI Adapter | $1.40 |
| 500mAh 3.7v Lithium Ion Polymer Battery with 2-Pin JST-PH Connector | $7.95 |
| Powerboost 500 Charger Breakout Board | $14.95 |
| Breadboard-Friendly SPDT Slide Switch | $0.95 |
| MicroUSB Power Cable, HDMI Cable, and Television/Monitor | - |
| Total | $42.15 |
Tools and Consumables
| Tool | Area |
|---|---|
| Soldering Iron & Solder | Electronics Lab |
| Angled Wire Cutters | Electronics Lab |
| Wire Strippers | Electronics Lab |
| 22AWG Wire | Electronics Lab |
| Velcro Tape (or Hot Glue Gun) | TBD |
| Philips Screwdriver Set | Everywhere |
Steps
 | |
1
|
Unscrew all screws on the back of the SNES controller and place them somewhere safe. Make sure to look under any warranty stickers for hidden screws! |
 | |
2
|
Carefully move any wires and components out of the center to make room for extra boards. Your controller may look slightly different than this Retrolink controller. That's okay! |
3
|
Before continuing, place all components on the back board to ensure they fit. Make sure you account for screws! You may need to move components slightly for a good fit. |
4
|
On the back of the controller case, use angled wire cutters to remove any unnecessary plastic from the backing. Don't remove any screw holes! You'll need those later. |
 | |
5
|
Use the angled wire cutter to cut about 6" of the USB cord from the controller. The remaining USB cord can be discarded or used for another project. |
6
|
Strip the outer black wire from the trimmed wire, revealing the 4 colored wires inside. |
7
|
Strip a small amount of wire from the end of each exposed wire, to allow for it to be soldered. |
8
|
Tin the ends of each wire using a small amount of solder. |
Tips
- Whenever using Lithium Ion Polymer batteries, pay close attention to maximum charge rates and amperages. Even with protection circuits in-place, these should always be treated with care.
- Remember that most Lithium Ion Polymer batteries do not have thermal protection circuitry built in.
- To reduce cost, an original Raspberry Pi Zero can be used, but note that, due to lack of network connectivity (the USB data ports are fully in-use), all administration of the platform (including game uploading) must be done on a separate system
- To further reduce cost and bulk, the size of the battery can be reduced to 100mAh, or even less - but playtime (and charge rate) will be drastically reduced between plays.
Common Questions
No common questions have been made yet. Feel free to ask one!
Variations
Nobody has created their own version of this project, yet. If you do, please add a link to your new project here!