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==Preparation to Use==
==Preparation to Use==
===Turn On Safety/Heat Dissipating Systems===
===Turn On Safety/Heat Dissipating Systems===
# Turn on the two switches by the air exhaust exiting the ceiling of the CNC room. One is for air exhaust, and the other is for the cooler. Both need to be on.
# Turn on the the rocker switch by the Boss computer. It turns on the air assist, the water cooler, and the exhaust fan.
#* Do NOT touch the cooler switch. Instead you're turning on the "lightswitch" behind the cooler. The cooler itself always stays on.
#* Do NOT touch the cooler switch by the exhaust pipe. The cooler itself always stays on.
===Turn On The Laser===
===Turn On The Laser===
===Setting the Origin===
===Setting the Origin===
The BOSS's origin is in the upper left of the drawing, as opposed to the Epilog, which has the origin in the upper right. Unlike the Epilog, there is no known origin, as the honeycomb bed is movable and doesn't have a set edge. Set up your materials reasonably square. Note that if the materials are too close to the edge of the bed, you'll get a "slop" warning. This unhelpful message means that the design you intend to cut will be truncated at the edge of the bed.
The BOSS's origin is in the upper right of the drawing, as opposed to the Epilog, which has the origin in the upper left. Unlike the Epilog, there is no known origin, as the honeycomb bed is movable and doesn't have a set edge. Set up your materials reasonably square. Note that if the materials are too close to the edge of the bed, you'll get a "Frame Slop" warning. This unhelpful message means that the design you intend to cut will be truncated at the edge of the bed.
To set the origin:
To set the origin:
The way speed/power settings are applied is colors applied to "paths". Originally all paths have the black color applied. Once you have a color applied to a path, you can set up the path settings. Each path has 4 settings:
The way speed/power settings are applied is colors applied to "paths". Originally all paths have the black color applied. Once you have a color applied to a path, you can set up the path settings. Each path has 4 settings:
# Speed
# Speed
# Power
# Power (While Power goes up to 100% in practice it's limited to 95%, and '''you shouldn't use above 80%''')
# Display (if the path shows in RDWorks layout
# Display (if the path shows in RDWorks layout
# Output (if the path selected is being output)
# Output (if the path selected is being output)
(TODO - what does min/max power mean?)
It's useful to set different colors - a few uses:
It's useful to set different colors - a few uses:
* When first starting your job, you may want to cut only a test piece first, so you can make sure it's cutting properly. Set all other paths to a different color, then set the "Output" setting to "No".
* When first starting your job, you may want to cut only a test piece first, so you can make sure it's cutting properly. Set all other paths to a different color, then set the "Output" setting to "No".
* You can also set a priority for a color. This is useful when dealing with plywood. Almost no 1/4" plywood is flat - it always warps. Additionally applying heat tends to make the plywood "cup" even more. By making your first cuts through the center of the board (from top to bottom or left to right), you're cutting the "cup" in half and helping the board fall much flatter.
* You can also set a priority for a color. This is useful when dealing with plywood. Almost no 1/4" plywood is flat - it always warps. Additionally applying heat tends to make the plywood "cup" even more. By making your first cuts through the center of the board (from top to bottom or left to right), you're cutting the "cup" in half and helping the board fall much flatter.
* Set a path not to output, but preserve its location and preserve the location of the origin.
* Set a path not to output, but preserve its location and preserve the location of the origin.
====Layout====
====Layout====
====Illustrator Files====
====Illustrator Files====
RDworks can import Illustrator files, apparently with no problems. The issue is that the layers all display, which can be an issue if you're using layers to store different cuts. Also, RDworks can mirror designs but can not rotate 90 degrees. This makes it a pain to turn designs to fit.
RDworks can import Illustrator files. The issues:
# The layers all display, which can be an issue if you're using layers to store different cuts.
# It doesn't always properly clip paths, for example paths hidden by overlapping shapes.
====Cut====
====Cut====
# Click the "Output?" button on the laser computer. It's near the bottom right of the screen.
# Click the "Output?" button on the laser computer. It's near the bottom right of the screen.
# Immediately watch from the edge of the lid to see it cutting. You didn't start a fire, did you - you pyromanic, you...
# Immediately watch from the edge of the lid to see it cutting. You didn't start a fire, did you - you pyromanic, you...
====Troubleshooting====
A "Frame Slop" error means your job is going to try cutting outside the X/Y the boss can do. You probably need to move your origin away from the edge.
==Finishing Up==
==Finishing Up==
===Cleanup===
===Cleanup===
# The honeycomb grid comes out. You can vacuum in the center of the grid.
# The honeycomb grid comes out. You can vacuum in the center of the grid.
# For the love of god, don't leave junk in/on the honeycomb. Mommy doesn't work here.
# Don't leave junk in/on the honeycomb!
===Shutdown===
===Shutdown===
# Turn off the key on the laser.
# Turn off the key on the laser.
# Push down the red panic button.
# Push down the red panic button.
==Cleaning==
To clean the lens:
# Have gloves. You must handle it only with gloved hands; clean, powderless, nitrile gloves are fine. So are cotton finger cots, but nitrile is easier to come by.
# Have a soft lint free cloth/surface (need to work the surface out).
# Take the lense out of its holder.
# Blow the lens off with clean condensed air. Do not use the "freon" sprays for camera lenses. ZnSe is somewhat sensitive to thermal shock: there is the possibility of spraying drops of liquid that will evaporate quickly and crater the lens.
# Since it can be difficult to focus on a mostly transparent surface, it's best to examine the lens under a small, bright light source like a desk lamp to look for contaminants. If you don't see any, you're done. Put the lens back in its holder and go.
# If there are contaminants, use isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol, too much water and possibly other contaminants) as a cleaning solvent. Acetone also works, but IPA is a lot more pleasant to work with, and most Boss owners use it.
# Either use Q-tips or lens tissues (preferred) wetted with solvent. With Q-tips, start at the middle of the lens and work outward, gently mopping the lens in a spiral motion moving out to the edge. With tissues or microfiber cloth, drag the wetted tissue over the lens. In either case, immediately blow any residual solvent off the lens with clean compressed air. Examine again, and repeat if necessary. Otherwise return the lens to its mount. Experience will teach us how often this should be done. (Do NOT use Kleenex or paper towels, they can contain bits of grit)
For mirrors:
Dust burns and degrades the mirror.
# For the mirrors, regularly blow the dust off with clean, dry air or freon (no thermal shock issues).
# Occasionally clean them like lenses. You should not have to remove them from their mounts.