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| serial=SERIAL NUMBER  
 
| serial=SERIAL NUMBER  
 
| arrived=6/29/2011  
 
| arrived=6/29/2011  
| doesitwork=yes
+
| doesitwork=no
 
| contact=[[CNC|CNC Area Host]]  
 
| contact=[[CNC|CNC Area Host]]  
 
| where=CNC room against northwest wall
 
| where=CNC room against northwest wall
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== Status ==
 
== Status ==
   −
Epilog is operational after repairs.  
+
The Epilog is broken and won't be repaired anytime real soon. February 1, 2018.
    
Due to the Epilog being moved, there are new procedures for getting it operational. Currently, the air assist switch is dangling from a board to the left of the laser. The air assist no longer hisses as a solenoid has been installed to prevent leakage during inactivity. The vent switch is on the left of the Boss laser, labeled as such. The other switch is for the Boss chiller and should not be touched for use of the Epilog.  
 
Due to the Epilog being moved, there are new procedures for getting it operational. Currently, the air assist switch is dangling from a board to the left of the laser. The air assist no longer hisses as a solenoid has been installed to prevent leakage during inactivity. The vent switch is on the left of the Boss laser, labeled as such. The other switch is for the Boss chiller and should not be touched for use of the Epilog.  
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* If there is someone waiting, get their phone number to text them, if possible. Texting allows you to give them a heads up so they can start setting up their job without you leaving the laser are.  (Leaving the laser running unattended is against the rules.) It also spares you from having to physically track down the other user.
 
* If there is someone waiting, get their phone number to text them, if possible. Texting allows you to give them a heads up so they can start setting up their job without you leaving the laser are.  (Leaving the laser running unattended is against the rules.) It also spares you from having to physically track down the other user.
   −
== Table Saw Note! ==
+
=== Table Saw Note! ===
 
Items that have been cut on the laser cutter have the potential to set off the SawStop table saw safety brake. This will make the saw unusable until the SawStop cartridge is replaced, which costs ~ $75!  It typically happens if there is an excess of carbon char on the edges.  
 
Items that have been cut on the laser cutter have the potential to set off the SawStop table saw safety brake. This will make the saw unusable until the SawStop cartridge is replaced, which costs ~ $75!  It typically happens if there is an excess of carbon char on the edges.  
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# Look at the lights on the front of the SawStop. If it is green you should be OK to proceed. If its red. DO NOT CUT. IT WILL TRIGGER THE BRAKE.
 
# Look at the lights on the front of the SawStop. If it is green you should be OK to proceed. If its red. DO NOT CUT. IT WILL TRIGGER THE BRAKE.
   −
You can try to sand off the char and repeat steps 1-5 or use another method to cut these pieces.  
+
You can try to sand off the char and repeat steps 1-5 or use another method to cut these pieces.
   −
 
+
== Top Eight Epilog Laser Tips ==
 
  −
== Top Eight ==
   
* Don't use the autofocus, because it could burn out a motor.
 
* Don't use the autofocus, because it could burn out a motor.
 
* Don't cut materials that will ignite or emit dangerous fumes (any chlorinated plastic like PVC, for example). See section below.
 
* Don't cut materials that will ignite or emit dangerous fumes (any chlorinated plastic like PVC, for example). See section below.
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== Authorization ==
 
== Authorization ==
   −
Authorization for the laser is not viral. There are a few authorized trainers, though, and fairly frequent authorizations. Currently (as of Jan 2016) authorizations will appear on the calendar, but are not planned much more than 2 weeks in advance. See below for list of authorized users and link to authorized trainers. Post on the Google Group email list; look for a recent thread about laser authorizations and post there.  
+
Authorization for the laser is not viral, meaning you must seek out a recommended authorizer. There are fairly frequent authorizations. Currently (as of Jan 2016) SOME authorizations will appear on the calendar, but are not planned much more than 2 weeks in advance. See below for list of authorized users and link to authorized trainers. Post on the Google Group email list; look for a recent thread about laser authorizations and post there.
 +
 
 +
=== Recommended Authorizers (these people can authorize you) ===
 +
 
 +
The laser cutter now has [[:Category:Recommended laser authorizers|recommended authorizers]]. Recommended authorizers will periodically conduct authorization sessions for PS:1 members wishing to use the laser engraver. These sessions will be announced on the members' listserv as early as is practicable. A recommended authorizer can follow the instructions on [[Laser Engraver Certification]] to enable logins to the laser engraver computer.
    
== General Info ==
 
== General Info ==
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Under construction.
 
Under construction.
   −
== '''NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS''' ==
+
If you click print on the computer but the file does not load onto the laser cutter, select the correct driver from the print dialog box (do not select a grayed out driver, select the one that is status "Ready"). If that won't work, try unplugging the red USB cord on the back of the computer and plugging it back in. It was probably unplugged or not making contact well enough.
 
  −
* '''PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride):''' Also known as '''"vinyl"''' '''"pleather"''' or '''"artificial leather."''' Most adhesive vinyl shelf paper (e.g. Con-Tact Paper) also is PVC. Emits HCl and nasty chlorinated compounds when cut! Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
  −
* '''Polycarbonate:''' Also known as '''"Lexan."''' Polycarbonate is also often found as flat, sheet material. The case cover window on the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation! This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate can also emit flame and chlorine gas when cut, making it a poor choice for laser cutting.
  −
 
  −
* '''HDPE:''' "milk bottle" plastic. It melts. It gets gooey. It catches on fire. Don't use it.
  −
* '''PolyStyrene Foam:''' It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
  −
* '''Fiberglass:''' The epoxy resin used in fiberglass is bad to cut, the vapor/fumes of the epoxy resin are bad. The fiberglass mat itself, without resin, is safe to cut.
  −
* '''Coated Carbon Fiber:''' Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying. However, once coated with epoxy it will emit noxious fumes.
  −
* Silhouette '''magnet paper''' (sold by Inventables by example): it likely contains chlorine. Emits HCl and nasty chlorinated compounds when cut! Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
  −
* '''PTFE:''', also known as '''Teflon''' or any fluorinated polymer it will releases nasty fluorinated compounds (bad for you) and sublimate then deposit on the lenses (likely destroying them).
  −
* '''Gator foam''': foam core gets burned and eaten away compared to the top and bottom hard paper shell. Not a fantastic thing to cut, but it can be cut if watched. And the MSDS sheet says it may produce hydrogen bromide and hydrogen chloride known to degrade the optics and mechanic of the cutter
  −
* Any other plastic with "Chlor" or "Fluor" in the name, for the same reasons as PVC and PTFE above.
  −
 
  −
== '''Test for material''' ==
  −
 
  −
Some people came up with an easy protocol to help identify unknown polymers: [http://www.nycresistor.com/2008/08/28/how-to-identify-polymers-with-burnination/ Nyc Resistor - how to identify polymers with burnination]. We don't know how reliable it is. And we can't but recommend to do that under good ventilation (outside?)
  −
 
  −
== Use Caution With These Materials ==
  −
* '''ABS:''' ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt). ABS emits hydogen cyanide when burned. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene
  −
 
  −
== Safe Materials ==
  −
The laser can cut or etch. The materials that the laser can cut materials like wood, paper, cork, and some kinds of plastics. Etching can be done on almost anything, wood, cardboard, anodized aluminum, plastic, marble, stone, tile, and glass.
  −
* Cutting
  −
** Many woods up to 1/4" thick. Engineered woods like MDF are okay to use but may experience a higher amount of charring when cut. Be very careful about cutting oily woods, or very resinous woods as they also may catch fire. Natural wood can be cut or engraved, but varies in density in a single piece; results will vary across the workpiece.
  −
** Paper cuts very very well on the laser cutter, and also very quickly. Thin paper and single layer card stock and cardboard are perfectly OK. Thicker cardboard, carton, and other papers also cut very well but need to be watched to make sure they don't catch fire.
  −
** Cork cuts nicely, but the quality of the cut depends on the thickness and quality of the cork. Engineered cork has a lot of glue in it, and may not cut as well. Cork thicker than 1/4" should be avoided.
  −
** Cast acrylic (also known as Lucite, Plexiglas, PMMA) cuts extremely well on the laser cutter, leaving a beautifully polished edge. With care, acrylic material up to 1/2" thick can be cut on the laser cutter. Extruded acrylic cuts less well and etches even worse. It tends to melt and puddle rather than vaporize.
  −
** Delrin (POM) in thin sheets cuts and engraves very well. Delrin comes in a number of shore strengths (hardness) and the harder delrin tends to work better. Great for gears! It is possible to deeply engrave Delrin to make dies for embossing paper and leather.
  −
** Kapton tape (Polyimide) : Works well, in thin sheets and strips like tape. 1/16" thick is about as thick as you can cut reliably.
  −
** Mylar : Works well if it's thin. Once you get too far past 1/16" thick mylar has a tendency to warp, bubble, and curl. Gold coated mylar will not work.
  −
** Solid Styrene : Smokes a lot when cut, but can be cut. Keep it thin (1/16")
  −
** Depron foam: Used a lot for hobby, RC aircraft, architectural models, and toys. 1/4" cuts nicely, with a smooth edge. Must be constantly monitored when cutting.
  −
** Cloth (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton, polyester, but NEVER vinyl or pleather-- see above) They all cut well. Leather is very hard to cut, but can be if it's thinner than a belt (call it 1/8")
  −
** Magnetic Sheet material cuts beautifully (make SURE it does NOT contain chlorine, see above)
  −
** NON-CHLORINE containing rubber is fine for cutting. Natural rubber engraves but leaves a dark sticky residue that doesn't affect stamps if the piece is engraved deeply enough.
  −
** Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not yet had epoxy applied can be cut, very slowly. You must not cut carbon fiber that has been coated!!
  −
* Etching: all the above can be etched, in some cases very deeply. In addition, you can etch:
  −
** Glass (green seems to work best) .. looks sandblasted. Only FLAT GLASS can be engraved in our cutter. No round or cylindrical items.
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** Ceramic tile
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** Anodized aluminum ( vaporizes the anodization away )
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** Painted/coated metals ( vaporizes the paint away )
  −
** Stone : Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. Gets a white "textured" look when etched
  −
* Marking
  −
There is an expensive coating called 'cermark'. This marking compound costs $100 for a small bottle, and must be diluted with ethanol and applied to metal (not ceramics or stone) before being etched to leave behind a permanent dark black mark.
     −
=== Material sources ===
+
==[[Laser Materials]]==
* [http://www.inventables.com Inventables] for acrylic
+
Suitable materials for lasering are on the [[Laser Materials]] page. In general the Epilog can cut up to 1/4" thick materials successfully. No laser owned by PS1 can cut metals.
* [http://www.abbeyspecialties.com/ Abbey Specialties] for acrylic in varied sizes, this company is our landlord. They are in the other half of our building and if you ask they can drop off in our shared loading dock.
  −
* [http://www.petersenplastics.com Petersen Brother's Plastics] Has off-cuts and small pieces for $2/lb. 2929 N Pulaski Rd, Chicago, IL 60641 (773) 286-5666
  −
* [http://www.amazon.com/Baltic-Birch-Plywood-Great-Scroll/dp/B00GQND2PK/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421174541&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=laser+plywod Amazon.com] good Baltic Birch 1/8" plywood.
  −
* [http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx Laser-engravable rubber and polymer, for stamps]
  −
* [http://www.amazon.com/Laserable-Rubber-Bundle-Engraving-Machine/dp/B00LIZFXY4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436036917&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=acrylic+sheet+laserable Amazon, laserable rubber for stamps]
      
== Strategies and techniques ==
 
== Strategies and techniques ==
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See main article, [[Epilog techniques]].
 
See main article, [[Epilog techniques]].
   −
[[Laser settings]] for various materials.
+
[[Epilog Laser settings]] for various materials.
    
== General references ==
 
== General references ==
    
incredible box maker, with holes and text: http://www.makercase.com/
 
incredible box maker, with holes and text: http://www.makercase.com/
 +
 +
parametric python box generator: http://www.festi.info/boxes.py/
    
parametric pdf box creator: http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/
 
parametric pdf box creator: http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/
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|}
 
|}
   −
== Notes on Software Compatibility ==
+
=== Notes on Software Compatibility ===
    
Adobe Illustrator and the epilog drivers don't always work great together. If you're experiencing any of the following, there is a simple fix:
 
Adobe Illustrator and the epilog drivers don't always work great together. If you're experiencing any of the following, there is a simple fix:
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** Occasional workaround: reboot
 
** Occasional workaround: reboot
   −
==== I was certified a long time ago ====
+
==== I was authorized a long time ago ====
    
You need to
 
You need to
 
# Be a Current Member
 
# Be a Current Member
 
# Have a https://members.pumpingstationone.org account
 
# Have a https://members.pumpingstationone.org account
# Talk to a recommended certifier, The area host, or email [email protected]
+
# Talk to a recommended authorizer, The area host, or email [email protected]
   −
You may be asked to get recertified.
+
You may be asked to get reauthorized.
   −
== List of Currently Certified Users ==
+
== List of Currently Authorized Users ==
   −
This list is hugely incomplete because nobody was doing it. Someone should fix that eventually... for now, new certs should go in here. If you are certified and remember who certified you, go ahead and add yourself. Your non-presence on this list is not intended to insult you or your relatives.
+
If you are authorized and remember who authorized you, go ahead and add yourself.  
 +
The thing that really matters is if you are enabled by virtue of being a "Epilog Laser authorized person" in your user/member account.
 +
Having your name on this list does not automatically enable you to log in on the machine that is connected to the Epilog.
    
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
 
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
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|Ray Doeksen
 
|Ray Doeksen
 
|-
 
|-
|[[User:skynaya|Skylar Nova]]
+
|[[User:skynaya|Sky Nova]]
 
|Ray Doeksen
 
|Ray Doeksen
 
|-
 
|-
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|Tom Burtonwood
 
|Tom Burtonwood
 
|Ray Doeksen
 
|Ray Doeksen
|-}
+
|-
 +
|Katherine Adamski
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Brian Eaton
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Scott Condren
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Paul McClay
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Brian Adamson
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Madeline Sibon
 +
|Ray Doeksen
 +
|-
 +
|Sam Chen
 +
|Ray Doeksen
 +
|-
 +
|[[User:stepcut|Jeremy Shaw]]
 +
|Ray Doeksen
 +
|-
 +
| [[User:Andrewvaughan|Andrew Vaughan]]
 +
| [[User:Daddybird|Burton Kent]]
 +
|-
 +
|Matt Grunstad
 +
|Ray Doeksen
 +
|-
 +
|Sam Yi
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|7/29/17
 +
|-
 +
|Andrew Wingate
 +
|Burton Kent
 +
|-
 +
|Brady Soule
 +
|Joe Juhnke
 +
|-
 +
|Sam Dreyer
 +
|Joe Juhnke / Sky Nova
 +
|}
   −
== Authorizing Users ==
     −
The laser cutter now has [[:Category:Recommended laser authorizers|recommended authorizers]]. Recommended authorizers will periodically conduct authorization sessions for PS:1 members wishing to use the laser engraver. These sessions will be announced on the members' listserv as early as is practicable. A recommended authorizer can follow the instructions on [[Laser Engraver Certification]] to enable logins to the laser engraver computer.
      
[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
 
[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
 
[[Category:Fabrication]]
 
[[Category:Fabrication]]
 
[[Category:Certification Clarification Needed]]
 
[[Category:Certification Clarification Needed]]
4

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