Changes

== What you'll get during the build: ==

== What you'll get during the build: ==

You'll receive and assemble the plastic and metal parts necessary to build the 3D platform for a Mendel Prusa. This does not include the actual extruding toolhead, stepper motors, power supply, build platform, PLA or ABS filament, or electronics. With the exception of the extruder, most of these parts are available from many sources and just bolt onto the Prusa platform.

You'll receive and assemble the plastic and metal parts necessary to build the 3D platform for a Mendel Prusa. This does not include the actual hot toolhead, stepper motors, power supply, build platform, PLA or ABS filament, or electronics. With the exception of the extruder, most of these parts are available from many sources and just bolt onto the Prusa platform.

== What you'll need to acquire on your own to complete the build: ==

== What you'll need to acquire on your own to complete the build: ==

The above electronics also expect you to have 4 Pololu A4983 stepper drivers, this precise model:

The above electronics also expect you to have 4 Pololu A4983 stepper drivers, this precise model:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1201

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1201

These are great stepper drivers and frequently sold out, but still ship within a reasonable timeframe on backorder. You should get heat sinks for them, too. There are many suitable options, here is an example:

These are great stepper drivers and frequently sold out, but still ship within a reasonable timeframe on backorder. You should get heat sinks for them, too. There are many suitable options, here is an example:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

* Hot end:

* Hot end:

The final piece is the hot end for the extruder. It's very easy to build the 'cold end' which pushes the filament, but so far I have kept to purchasing hot ends. I think it would be easy to machine one that worked well at the space -- but in the meantime, there's two popular options here:

The final piece is the hot end for the extruder. It's very easy to build the 'cold end' which pushes the filament, but so far I have kept to purchasing hot ends. I think it would be easy to machine one that worked well at the space -- but in the meantime, there's two popular options here:

This site is a little confusing, but the 'superpack' here is the hot end only:

This site is a little confusing, but the 'superpack' here is the hot end only:

http://shop.arcol.hu/

http://shop.arcol.hu/

Hot end nozzles come in a variety of sizes; I recommend starting with a .5mm nozzle and getting a supplementary .35 or .25 later on. I've only actually /used/ .5mm nozzles ever, personally, although I have some .35mm here I mean to try out 'someday.'

Hot end nozzles come in a variety of sizes; I recommend starting with a .5mm nozzle and getting a supplementary .35 or .25 later on. I've only actually /used/ .5mm nozzles ever, personally, although I have some .35mm here I mean to try out 'someday.'

Hot end nozzles also sometimes have options for 3mm filament or 1.75mm filament. I'm using 3mm for everything, although 1.75 is becoming more popular, it hasn't reached 'critical mass' in the community yet.

Hot end nozzles also sometimes have options for 3mm filament or 1.75mm filament. I'm using 3mm for everything, although 1.75 is becoming more popular, it hasn't reached 'critical mass' in the community yet.

* PC Power supply

* PC Power supply

* Misc stuff you'll want

* Misc stuff you'll want

**PLA plastic. If you get ABS, you will /need/ a heated platform. Also there's suggestion that using PLA is both safer and nicer to the environment. There are many options to source this.   My favorite source is also the most expensive and longest wait:

** PLA plastic. If you get ABS, you will /need/ a heated platform. Also there's suggestion that using PLA is both safer and nicer to the environment. There are many options to source this. My favorite source is also the most expensive and longest wait:

http://diamondage.co.nz/pla.html

http://diamondage.co.nz/pla.html

But you can find 3mm PLA in many places, like Makergear, Makerbot, Ultimachine, etc. While 1.75mm is becoming a popular option, I haven't personally made the switch, and all the stuff I've recommended is for 3mm filament.

But you can find 3mm PLA in many places, like Makergear, Makerbot, Ultimachine, etc. While 1.75mm is becoming a popular option, I haven't personally made the switch, and all the stuff I've recommended is for 3mm filament.

** Blue Tape. When printing PLA, you put this stuff down on your build platform first, and the PLA will stick to it like magic. http://www.scotchblue.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BlueBrand/Scotch-Blue/ You can get it at any hardware store.

** Blue Tape. When printing PLA, you put this stuff down on your build platform first, and the PLA will stick to it like magic. http://www.scotchblue.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BlueBrand/Scotch-Blue/ You can get it at any hardware store.

** Kapton/Polyimide Tape. When printing ABS on a heated platform, use this like you would Bluetape for PLA. It's typically VERY expensive stuff, but you can buy it SUPER cheap from dealextreme.com -- the downside is they always take > 1 month for orders to arrive... very slow shipping.

** Kapton/Polyimide Tape. When printing ABS on a heated platform, use this like you would Bluetape for PLA. It's typically VERY expensive stuff, but you can buy it SUPER cheap from dealextreme.com -- the downside is they always take > 1 month for orders to arrive... very slow shipping.

** DMM with a temperature probe. Some folks run out and buy an IR thermometer to help calibrate their hot end. THIS DOES NOT WORK. You need to get a legitimate K-type thermocouple temperature probe. They are common on midrange ($50) multimeters.

** DMM with a temperature probe. Some folks run out and buy an IR thermometer to help calibrate their hot end. THIS DOES NOT WORK. You need to get a legitimate K-type thermocouple temperature probe. They are common on midrange ($50) multimeters.