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→Finishing
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/pen-pencil-stylus-kits Woodcraft]
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/pen-pencil-stylus-kits Woodcraft]
The standard for pen turning is a 7mm mandrel, which PS:One owns. You will need to purchase bushings specific to the type of pen. Bushings can be damaged by turning, sanding, and finishing, so they are considered user-supplied consumables. Watch the diameter of your bushings and try not to damage them when turning.
The standard for pen turning is a 7 mm mandrel, which PS:One owns. You will need to purchase bushings specific to the type of pen. Bushings can be damaged by turning, sanding, and finishing, so they are considered user-supplied consumables. Watch the diameter of your bushings and try not to damage them when turning.
Kits frequently are classified by tube size. PS:One has hardware to make pens with the following tube sizes:
Kits frequently are classified by tube size. PS:One has hardware to make pens with the following tube sizes:
[[File:PenTubeInsertion.jpeg|thumb]]After you have drilled the blank, the next step is to glue the metal pen tube inside the hole. Make sure the tube fits without too much force, and that it can be positioned so that excess wood extends beyond both metal ends. If tear out has occurred, take care in positioning the tube so that the area of torn out grain does not contact the tube itself, if possible. You can use 2-part epoxy or CA glue. Sand the outside of the tube if it is not rough already from the factory. Cover with a thin layer of glue. Use the conical insertion tool (stored in the Pen Tools box) to inert the tube into position inside the blank, and let the tube dry.<br clear=all>
[[File:PenTubeInsertion.jpeg|thumb]]After you have drilled the blank, the next step is to glue the metal pen tube inside the hole. Make sure the tube fits without too much force, and that it can be positioned so that excess wood extends beyond both metal ends. If tear out has occurred, take care in positioning the tube so that the area of torn out grain does not contact the tube itself, if possible. You can use 2-part epoxy or CA glue. Sand the outside of the tube if it is not rough already from the factory. Cover with a thin layer of glue. Use the conical insertion tool (stored in the Pen Tools box) to inert the tube into position inside the blank, and let the tube dry.<br clear=all>
== Trimming the Blank ==
== Trimming the Blanks ==
The next step is to trim the wood exactly perpendicular to the pen tube, and to the exact length of the tube. At present, we have only one method of blank trimming: a universal pen trimmer. We anticipate getting a disk sanding jig at a future date.
=== Universal Pen Trimmer ===
[[File:619F9889-2750-4F7C-9799-299321D3D910.jpeg|thumb]]This set consists of a steel 4 blade cutter or a 2 blade carbide cutter. The steel cutter is fairly dull and cuts slowly. The carbide cutter will cut aggressively and is more likely to tear out end grain. One of four inserts goes through the center of this, and is held in place with a set screw tightened using the attached Allen wrench. (The set screw for the carbide cutter appears to use a different sized Allen wrench!) the following inserts are available to square pens with tubes of the following diameters:
* 7 mm
* 8 mm
* 3/8 inch
* 10 mm
The inserts contain reamers that will also trim dried glue from the inside of the tube. Additionally, the kit includes a brass tube that slips around the 7 mm reamer so it will fit tubes used for the Penn State Industries #PKPARK-PCL and #PKMONT-PCL kits.
It is helpful to secure the pen blank in a vise, or clamp it while trimming, which can help prevent tear-out. Chuck the trimmer in a drill and then trim the wood square and exactly flush with the tube, taking care not to shorten the tube appreciably.<br clear=all>
== Turning the Pen Body and Cap ==
[[File:PenBlanksOnMandrel.jpeg|thumb]]The 7 mm pen mandrel comes with 5 spacers, which generally aren’t used and are set aside. The pen mandrel goes in the lathe headstock. One then assembles the bushings (specific to the pen kit, which the user is expected to supply) and the pen blanks with tubes on the lathe according to the kit directions. Take care because the assembly order typically does matter; often, pen caps or upper body parts are different diameters than the lower pen body.
We use a “mandrel saver” that slips on the end of the mandrel and has a Morse taper that fits in the tailstock. Apply enough tension using the tailstock ram so that the piece can be turned in the lathe securely, but avoid excess tension. Make sure both the tailstock is locked to the bed, and the ram is locked in the tailstock. If, when turning, you find that the wood catches on the lathe tool and stops while the mandrel still spins, that indicates inadequate ram pressure.
Then, turn the wood to the appropriate profile, according to the instructions and artistic preference. Keep in mind that the amount of wood on a typical pen may be less than 1 mm. The lathe tools have a tendency to gouge the wood and tear at the grain, so use lathe tools for rough shaping only, and approach the final diameter and profile with course sandpaper.<br clear=all>
== Finishing ==
[[File:SandingPen.jpeg|thumb]]The finish depends on the material and artistic preference. This section focuses on wood finishes. Pens can be made from other materials like acrylic, which have their own methods for finishing.
First, it will need to be sanded like any other lathe project. PS:One stocks sandpaper up to 400 grit. Remember to set the lathe at a slower speed.
Pens typically are finished to several thousand grit. At present, the user will need to provide their own fine sanding materials.
Always lay a paper towel on the bed of the lathe before applying any finish, oil, CA glue, or wax to keep the lathe bed clean.
Typically, there are two schools of thought on wood finishes. Finishes are a matter of personal taste.
CA glue is a hard, durable against wear, clear plastic finish that is inexpensive, easy to obtain, and easy to apply. It can be sanded and polished to a high gloss. The disadvantages of a CA finish are feel (the user is really feeling plastic, not the actual wood) and fragility (if the pen is dropped, the CA finish can crack and come off.) One method for applying a CA finish is shown in [https://youtu.be/WfLPYmuIM4k this video].
Friction finishes employ shellac, oils, and wax to create a glossy but more natural finish. They can be applied quickly but are more expensive to purchase. Ryan prefers friction finishes. His current method:
# “Wet sand” using these [https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKFINKIT2.html sanding pads] that range from 500 grit to 4000 grit and [https://www.doctorswoodshop.com/Store/ProductID/5 walnut oil], wiping the piece clean after changing grits.
# Apply three coats of [https://www.doctorswoodshop.com/Store/ProductID/4 Pens Plus].
# Apply two or three coats of [https://www.doctorswoodshop.com/Store/ProductID/7 walnut oil microcrystalline paste wax].
This finishing process is shown in [https://youtu.be/nwCRDNi_ank this video] produced by the manufacturer of these finishing products.<br clear=all>
== Final Assembly ==
[[File:PressFitPenAssembly.jpeg|thumb]]Pens typically are assembled once the tubes are finished and polished by pressing hardware into each end of the tube and then screwing the necessary parts together. Care must be taken to follow the instructions. Often, it is easy to forget to install a part, or to press the wrong part into a tube.
The easiest method to do this assembly is to use a shop vise. Cover both jaws with cardboard to prevent scratching or deforming the pen part.<br clear=all>