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Added a "Tips on Use" section
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=== Consumable Parts ===
 
=== Consumable Parts ===
 
This saw takes 141" blades.
 
This saw takes 141" blades.
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==Tips on Use==
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This section is based on a [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/pumping-station-one/rCix6WMMS4Q/S6Ds9sO7DAAJ discussion that took place on the mailing list].
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Band-saws have two main uses in the wood shop:
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# The primary use is to make curved cuts in a piece of flat wood. In this case the piece is held by hand and guided so the blade follows the curve. A fence is counterproductive for this use.
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# The second is resawing lumber that is too thick for the table saw. This is typically, but not exclusively, done with valuable pieces of wood for the purpose of creating a veneer. A fence may be appropriate for this use.
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With a bandsaw, you basically never want to have the fence locked parallel to the blade.  Every blade will have some degree of drift, and it is necessary to accommodate this drift to achieve a straight cut. There are two common solutions: single-point fences, and adjustable angle fences. PS:1 has both a nice magnetic adjustable fence and a single-point fence that attaches to it.
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With a single point fence, you adjust for the drift angle by eye as you cut.  This quick and easy method is most appropriate for resawing of narrower boards with a width of 6" or less.
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For wider boards, use the adjustable fence with a tall secondary fence attached, carefully adjusted to the drift angle of the blade. For really wide boards, you can also use a presser-board to ensure contact with the fence.
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Some additional advice on resawing:
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* Buy a nice blade and learn how to install and adjust it. The PS:1 blades are often fairly dull and don't track well.
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* Make sure your stock is prepared well, with at least one flat face and one square and flat edge.
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* Try to keep only 3-10 teeth in the wood. A 1.5 tpi blade is appropriate for most resawing.
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* Use a skip-tooth blade, at least 1" wide (but see note below).
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Although wide blades are best for resawing, using 1" blades on the Rockwell is a challenge. The carter blade guides are difficult to adjust, and 1" is the borderline of their capacity. Adjust them so that the back of the blade runs against the support bearing, rather than digging into the frame of the blade guide. This adjustment is particularly difficult on the lower guide. If you do allow the blade to dig into the blade guide, it may be difficult to detect the mistake. The saw will run fine, even though the frame of the lower guide is pushing the blade forward. There won't necessarily be any telltale noises or tracking problems. The only indications of a problem may be that the back of the blade starts to get hot from friction and will discolor as it picks up resins from the wood.
    
{{WoodshopProctors}}
 
{{WoodshopProctors}}
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