Changes

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==Rules==

== Rules ==

# Do not move the machine ever.

# Do not move the machine ever.

# Never use the table as a work surface.

# Never use the table as a work surface.

# Always have the dust collection on. Turn it on before you plug in the saw and off after you unplug the saw.

# Always have the dust collection on. Turn it on before you plug in the saw and off after you unplug the saw.

# Always check your material on the blade before you spin up the blade. If the light turns red, DO NOT CUT.

# Always check your material on the blade before you spin up the blade. If the light turns red, DO NOT CUT.

# Always check your wood for nails or staples. If you're not sure, check the entire piece with a magnet.

# Always check your wood for nails or staples. If you're not sure, check the entire piece with a magnet.

# If you break something, or damage the saw, contact the area host immediately. Don't let others do more damage or hurt themselves by using a broken tool.

# If you break something, or damage the saw, contact the area host immediately. Don't let others do more damage or hurt themselves by using a broken tool.

# Always dust the entire machine when you are done. Also check the motor compartment after every use and vacuum out as needed.

# Always dust the entire machine when you are done. Also check the motor compartment after every use and vacuum out as needed.

==Blade Brake==

== Blade Brake ==

This saw is equipped with a safety feature that will (hopefully) stop the blade when it contacts something conductive-- like your hand. However, that means you normally can't cut conductive things with this saw or you will trigger the safety brake. This is good if it was your hand in the way, but it also destroys the sawblade and requires installation of a replacement part that costs $70+ every time. And the saw will be down until the replacement can be installed.  

This saw is equipped with a safety feature that will (hopefully) stop the blade when it contacts something conductive-- like your hand. However, that means you normally can't cut conductive things with this saw or you will trigger the safety brake. This is good if it was your hand in the way, but it also destroys the sawblade and requires installation of a replacement part that costs $70+ every time. And the saw will be down until the replacement can be installed.  

According to the owner's manual: "Conductive materials such as aluminum and other metals, carbon fiber materials, '''mirrored acrylic''', carbon-filled materials, etc. will typically '''cause the brake to activate'''." [Emphasis added.]

According to the owner's manual: "Conductive materials such as aluminum and other metals, carbon fiber materials, '''mirrored acrylic''', carbon-filled materials, etc. will typically '''cause the brake to activate'''." [Emphasis added.]

Other things that may trigger the brake include wet wood, and wood with embedded nails or staples. Lexan and green pressure-treated wood reportedly can also be a problem. That is why the rules instruct you to check your material on the side of the blade before spinning it up, and to check your wood for nails or staples!

Other things that may trigger the brake include wet wood, and wood with embedded nails or staples. Lexan and green pressure-treated wood reportedly can also be a problem. That is why the rules instruct you to check your material on the side of the blade before spinning it up, and to check your wood for nails or staples!

==Notes==

== Notes ==

* There's an m8 hole drilled and tapped in the mitre gauge. The post from a magnetic base of our dial indicators thread in. The post may require a spacer so the threads don't stick out (use a stack of washers or a larger-than-m8 nut).

* There's an m8 hole drilled and tapped in the mitre gauge. The post from a magnetic base of our dial indicators thread in. The post may require a spacer so the threads don't stick out (use a stack of washers or a larger-than-m8 nut).

* The right hand table adjusting screw was bent while aligning the table. The table was aligned without it. Aligning the arbor tilt axis will be *really tough* without a replacement. (Part #11 in the cabinet and table exploded diagram in the manual p98)

* The right hand table adjusting screw was bent while aligning the table. The table was aligned without it. Aligning the arbor tilt axis will be *really tough* without a replacement. (Part #11 in the cabinet and table exploded diagram in the manual p98)

* The rear rip fence rail has places to put 4 countersunk allen bolts. The left hand bolt screwed into the main table was too long and made contact with an internal table part (probably the rear trunion). It probably pushed the table out of alignment and caused binding while re-aligning the table. That bolt was left out. Don't replace it!

* The rear rip fence rail has places to put 4 countersunk allen bolts. The left hand bolt screwed into the main table was too long and made contact with an internal table part (probably the rear trunion). It probably pushed the table out of alignment and caused binding while re-aligning the table. That bolt was left out. Don't replace it!

{{Template:Training|links=<br>

{{Template:Training|links=<br />

*[http://www.sawstop.com/documents/PCS31230%20Owner%27s%20Manual%20%20V3.3%20%203-8-10.pdf Owner's Manual]  

*[http://www.sawstop.com/documents/PCS31230%20Owner%27s%20Manual%20%20V3.3%20%203-8-10.pdf Owner's Manual]  

*[http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Articles/Table_Saw_Maintenance_Skill_Builder_Power_Tool_Tun_8197.aspx Table Saw Maintenance]}}

*[http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Articles/Table_Saw_Maintenance_Skill_Builder_Power_Tool_Tun_8197.aspx Table Saw Maintenance]}}

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