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Changes

From Pumping Station One
512 bytes added ,  15:47, 30 November 2019
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== Turning the Pen Body and Cap ==
 
== Turning the Pen Body and Cap ==
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[[File:PenBlanksOnMandrel.jpeg|thumb]]The 7 mm pen mandrel comes with 5 spacers, which generally aren’t used and are set aside. The pen mandrel goes in the lathe headstock. One then assembles the bushings (specific to the pen kit, which the user is expected to supply) and the pen blanks with tubes on the lathe according to the kit directions. Take care because the assembly order typically does matter; often, pen caps or upper body parts are different diameters than the lower pen body.
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[[File:PenBlanksOnMandrel.jpeg|thumb]]Pens are turned on the lathe using the 7 mm mandrel. Two methods are used to hold the work on the mandrel.
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We use a “mandrel saver” that slips on the end of the mandrel and has a Morse taper that fits in the tailstock. Apply enough tension using the tailstock ram so that the piece can be turned in the lathe securely, but avoid excess tension. Make sure both the tailstock is locked to the bed, and the ram is locked in the tailstock. If, when turning, you find that the wood catches on the lathe tool and stops while the mandrel still spins, that indicates inadequate ram pressure.
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A method we '''do not''' use but which appears frequently in videos and pen instructions is to hold the bushings and pen tubes in place with a nut that goes on the end of the mandrel. Then, the tailstock supports the end of the mandrel via a live center. Our mandrel isn’t threaded and doesn’t have the nut, although it does have 5 spacers which are used for this method.
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Then, turn the wood to the appropriate profile, according to the instructions and artistic preference. Keep in mind that the amount of wood on a typical pen may be less than 1 mm. The lathe tools have a tendency to gouge the wood and tear at the grain, so use lathe tools for rough shaping only, and approach the final diameter and profile with course sandpaper.<br clear=all>
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Instead, we use the “mandrel saver” method. The pen mandrel goes in the lathe headstock. One then assembles the bushings (specific to the pen kit, which the user is expected to supply) and the pen blanks / tubes on the lathe according to the kit directions. Take care because the assembly order typically does matter; often, pen caps or upper body parts are turned to different diameters than the lower pen body.
 +
 
 +
The “mandrel saver” slips on the end of the mandrel and has a Morse taper that fits in the tailstock. Apply enough tension using the tailstock ram so that the piece can be turned in the lathe securely, but avoid excess tension. Make sure both the tailstock is locked to the bed, and the ram is locked in the tailstock. If, when turning, you find that the wood catches on the lathe tool and stops while the mandrel still spins, that indicates inadequate ram pressure.
 +
 
 +
Then, turn the wood to the appropriate profile, according to the instructions and artistic preference. Ultimately, you will sand the wood so it is flush with the metal bushing. Keep in mind that the amount of wood on a typical pen may be less than 1 mm. The lathe tools have a tendency to gouge the wood and tear at the grain, so use lathe tools for rough shaping only, and approach the final diameter and profile with course sandpaper.<br clear=all>
    
== Finishing ==
 
== Finishing ==
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