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User:Andrewvaughan/SNES-in-a-Controller (view source)
Revision as of 22:35, 27 April 2017
, 22:35, 27 April 2017→Tools and Consumables
{{DISPLAYTITLE:<span style="position:absolute; top: -9999px;">User:Andrewvaughan/</span>SNES-in-a-Controller}}
{{Tutorial
| name=SNES-in-a-Controller
| image = snes-in-a-controller.jpeg
| creator = [[User:Andrewvaughan|Andrew Vaughan]]
| version = 1.0
| date = April 26, 2017
| est_time = 30 Minutes
| est_cost = ~$40
| in_development = Yes
| is_project = Yes
| based_on = SCRATCH
}}
With the size of gaming devices and development boards becoming smaller and smaller, it was only a matter of time before someone put a console inside the controller. Using a [[Raspberry Pi]] Zero, a standard USB SNES Controller, and a few extra parts, you can make yourself a portable, rechargeable gaming emulator, self-contained in its own controller.
== What You'll Need ==
=== Parts ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Part
! Cost
|-
| [https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/pi-zero-w/ Raspberry Pi Zero W] (or Raspberry Pi Zero)
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $10.00
|-
| [https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Super-Nintendo-Classic-Controller/dp/B01M1K6HKT/ USB SNES Controller]
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $6.90
|-
| [https://www.amazon.com/DTOL-HDMI-Micro-Adapter/dp/B0046S54GC/ MicroHDMI to HDMI Adapter]
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $1.40
|-
| [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1578 500mAh 3.7v Lithium Ion Polymer Battery with 2-Pin JST-PH Connector]
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $7.95
|-
| [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1944 Powerboost 500 Charger Breakout Board]
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $14.95
|-
| [https://www.adafruit.com/product/805 Breadboard-Friendly SPDT Slide Switch]
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $0.95
|-
| MicroUSB Power Cable, HDMI Cable, and Television/Monitor
| style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | -
|-
! Total
! style="font-family: courier new, courier; text-align: right;" | $42.15
|}
=== Tools and Consumables ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Tool
! Area
|-
| Soldering Iron & Solder
| [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]]
|-
| Angled Wire Cutters
| [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]]
|-
| Wire Strippers
| [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]]
|-
| 22AWG Wire
| [[:Category:Electronics_Equipment|Electronics Lab]]
|-
| Velcro Tape (or Hot Glue Gun)
| TBD
|-
| Philips Screwdriver Set
| Everywhere
|}
== Steps ==
{{TutorialStep
| number = 1
| instruction = Unscrew all screws on the back of the SNES controller and place them somewhere safe.
| tip = Make sure to look under any warranty stickers for hidden screws!
| image = snes-in-a-controller--unscrew.jpg
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 2
| instruction = Carefully move any wires and components out of the center to make room for extra boards.
| tip = Your controller may look slightly different than this Retrolink controller. That's okay!
| image = snes-in-a-controller--move-components.jpg
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 3
| instruction = Before continuing, place all components on the back board to ensure they fit.
| tip = Make sure you account for screws! You may need to move components slightly for a good fit.
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 4
| instruction = On the back of the controller case, use angled wire cutters to remove any unnecessary plastic from the backing.
| tip = Don't remove any screw holes! You'll need those later.
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 5
| instruction = Use the angled wire cutter to cut about 6" of the USB cord from the controller.
| tip = The remaining USB cord can be discarded or used for another project.
| image = snes-in-a-controller--cut-cable.jpg
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 6
| instruction = Strip the outer black wire from the trimmed wire, revealing the 4 colored wires inside.
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 7
| instruction = Strip a small amount of wire from the end of each exposed wire, to allow for it to be soldered.
}}
{{TutorialStep
| number = 8
| instruction = Tin the ends of each wire using a small amount of solder.
}}
<!-- TODO: load retropie on card, use keyboard to program, solder switch on, bend switch, solder data wires to rpi, solder power wires to +5/GND, solder separate wires from boost to rPI, attach microHDMI adapter, cut holes in case, attach battery, reassemble, charge, test -->
== Tips ==
* Whenever using Lithium Ion Polymer batteries, pay close attention to maximum charge rates and amperages. Even with protection circuits in-place, these should always be treated with care.
* Remember that most Lithium Ion Polymer batteries ''do '''not''''' have thermal protection circuitry built in.
* To reduce cost, an original Raspberry Pi Zero can be used, but note that, due to lack of network connectivity (the USB data ports are fully in-use), all administration of the platform (including game uploading) must be done on a separate system
* To further reduce cost and bulk, the size of the battery can be reduced to [https://www.adafruit.com/product/1570 100mAh], or even less - but playtime (and charge rate) will be drastically reduced between plays.
== Common Questions ==
No common questions have been made yet. Feel free to ask one!
== Variations ==
Nobody has created their own version of this project, yet. If you do, please add a link to your new project here!
[[Category:Projects]]
[[Category:Projects]]
[[Category:Tutorials]]
[[Category:Tutorials]]
[[Category:Electronics]]
[[Category:Raspberry Pi]]