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Line 1: − [[Category:Fabrication]] − − + − + − + − + − + − + + − + − 3/25/2013:+ − The Replicator is temporarily decommissioned as a result of a static discharge incident which happened yesterday. It was lame. − − 4/2/2013:+ − Fresh chip was installed tonight, but didn't fix the problem. Started a support ticket with MakerBot. − 4/4/2013:+ − MakerBot shipping us a new board ASAP − 5/9/2013;+ − After "manufacturing delays" and "miscommunications with the shipping department", the board has finally arrived! − They also sent us a new X-axis endstop cable and said "Remember, it's absolutely critical to replace the X axis endstop cable *before* replacing the Mightyboard itself!"+ + + + − [https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxTcsSABU_9wZWFkTjRVbFRocWs/edit?usp=sharing Replicator X-Axis Endstop Cable Replacement] − [https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxTcsSABU_9wUVE2N2k5SkVraHM/edit?usp=sharing Replicator MightyBoard Replacement]+ + + + + + − If you get stuck and can't find the information you need on this page, google is your friend. So is [http://support.makerbot.com]. There's a lot of information on this machine out there, so don't be afraid to do some research. It'll be fun. Plus, you can come back here and contribute your findings.+ + + + + + + − Download something from [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse], or some other website, or design a Thing using 3D modeling software. // list some free 3D CAD programs+ + + + + + + + + + − You'll need to turn your 3D model into toolpaths that the printer understands. This involves "slicing" your model into a bunch of layers. To do this, we'll need some software. + − For the Replicator, it's best to stick with [http://replicat.org ReplicatorG]. There are plenty of other options which you can try if you're adventurous.+ − On the menu bar, click on "Machine" and make sure you're set for the MakerBot Replicator Dual Extruder.+ − #Drag and drop your STL into the model environment+ − #Use the "Move", "Rotate", and "Scale" functions to alter your model as needed (remember to click "View" before trying to rotate the view again) − #Click "Generate GCode" (if you've altered your STL you'll be prompted to save it) − #Select the Replicator slicing defaults for your first print and make sure you select the correct extruder and support setting (see note below) − #Click "Generate GCode" and wait from 5 to 500 minutes for the Skeinforge to do its thing − #Once the gcode is done, you can estimate the time your part will take to print from the "Gcode" menu − #Last step! You'll need to build your gcode to a .S3G file which you'll be putting on an SD card (make sure the name isn't too long or the Replicator won't read it) − ====Choosing the right gcode settings====+ − //TODO+ − ===== About Support =====+ − //TODO+ − ===Loading a file in the printer===+ + + + − #Turn on the machine using the switch on the back+ − #Put in the SD card − #From the main menu, select "Build from SD" − #Select your file − The machine will now detect its limits, and start preheating the extruder+ + + + − ===The SD Card doesn't work, what should i do?===+ − #The machine is designed to take SD cards 2GB or smaller that are formatted with a FAT16 file system. − #Check the file system on the card you are using. − #for MAC OSX there are instructions here: [http://mtbaldy.us/~dnewman/lor/osx-sd-fat16.html] − #if that doesn't work, there is a formatting utility from SD that can be downloaded here: [https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/] − + + + + + − + + − ===Part not sticking?=== − After making sure the build platform is leveled, a good solution is to increase the temperature of the build platform. In the "gcode" tab in ReplicatorG, change the text to set the bed temperature to 118ºC instead of 110º. There will be a line near the top of the file like this: <br />+ + + Line 97:
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no edit summary
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|owner = PS:One
|certification = NO
|certification = NO
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|hackable = NO
|model = Makerbot
|model = Makerbot Replicator Dual
|serial = 8044
|serial = 8044
|arrived = October 2012
|arrived = October 2012
|doesitwork = WORKING
|doesitwork = no
|contact = Colin Parsons
|contact = [[CNC|CNC Area Host]]
|where = 2nd Floor
|where = gone
|value = $2000
|value = $20
|itemphoto=[[File:makerbotreplicator.jpg|200px]]
| image = Replicator.jpg
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}}
== STATUS ==
== To Fix or Verify ==
The old dual-extruder MakerBot has been removed from the 3D printer lineup. It's not around anymore. Long live the MakerBot.
The damage has been assessed (a blown voltage regulator) and a replacement part has been ordered. The machine should be ready to use very soon. Many thanks to Dan D and Jeremy BP for their help troubleshooting.
One heater is currently exposed. Needs to be dealt with one way or another. Exposed heater may have damaged some parts. Evaluate. --[[User:Rdoeksen|Rdoeksen]] ([[User talk:Rdoeksen|talk]]) 21:54, 14 February 2016 (CST)
Replace the stripped out extruder heater block from Nov. 13th breakdown. Extra heater blocks are in the 3D print area.
== Status ==
*November 20, 2015: Nozzle that came off was replaced; heater block threads are damaged. Extruders were shimmed up on one side to level out the extruder nozzles.
*November 13, 2015: bed-leveling screw nuts came off, bed hit one of the extruders and broke the nozzle off.
*October 2015: Both extruders fixed and working. Upgraded software on both computers upstairs and enabled both extruders on the Makerbot. Made a cardstock and copper tape pad replacement for the defunct front panel controls. Diagnosed and removed SMD Mosfet for the heated build plate and swapped in the Mosfet from the extra output on the control board. Replaced and rewired broken left extruder fan with a 12V fan; should be 24V but works fine. Diagnosed bad temperature sensor and main connector contacts on the heated build (HBP) plate; replaced HBP with the spare. Modified the spare heated build plate to used heavier gauge wire and spade connectors to avoid burnout as in previous HBP.
*February 20, 2015: Left extruder working, right extruder not feeding properly.
== Notes ==
*Only 3 bed leveling nuts are installed because it is significantly easier to level with only three points. The newest machines from Makerbot feature only three leveling points from the factory.
*Both extruders working, but periodically jamming. See the "Clearing a Filament Jam" video on Makerbot's maintenance page for the Replicator . http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/documentation/maintenance/
== References ==
[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot-users MakerBot UserGroup on Google Groups
]
== How To Use ==
== How To Use ==
=== General Instructions ===
When you get stuck and can't find the information you need on this page, google is your friend. So is http://support.makerbot.com [http://support.makerbot.com]. There's a lot of information on this machine out there, so don't be afraid to do some research. It'll be fun. Plus, you can come back here and contribute your findings.
Machine-specific manufacturer's support page at http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/ [http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/]
MakerBot has deleted a lot of threads on their support board, but the Google Group (see References, above) is independent, open and active.
=== Get a Thing to print ===
=== Get a Thing to print ===
You can add any STL file to either MakerWare or MakerBot Desktop software, and create a file to put on an SD card to use in the printer.
Youc can also download things from [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse], or some other website.
[[How to 3D Print a Squirrel on the Makerbot Replicator|Howto 3D Print a Squirrel on the Makerbot Replicator]]
=== Make something to print ===
Model something of your own; [https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org/3D_Modeling 3D modeling primer]
Your Thing should be a "watertight", solid model in STL format (binary or ASCII, doesn't matter).
Your Thing should be a "watertight", solid model in STL format (binary or ASCII, doesn't matter).
=== Slice Your Model ===
=== Slice Your Model ===
This Replicator Dual is running firmware that only recognizes .x3g format files.
You'll need to turn your 3D model into toolpaths that the printer understands. This involves "slicing" your model into a bunch of layers. To do this we'll need some software.
It's best to stick with [http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/ MakerWare]. There are plenty of other options which you can try if you're adventurous, but MakerWare has been developed by MakerBot to provide an easy experience with the Replicator.
Once you've got MakerWare downloaded and installed, follow these basic steps:
# Drag and drop your STL into the model environment
# Use the "Move", "Rotate", and "Scale" functions to alter your model as needed (remember to click "View" before trying to rotate the view again)
# Click on your model, and select your extruder under the "Object" menu on the bottom left (make sure to use the right extruder while the left one isn't working)
# Click "Make"
# Select "Export to a File", and export for "The Replicator (Dual)"
# The 3 default profiles (low, standard, high) are a good place to start (but keep in mind that the "high" setting will take much longer to slice)
# Make sure "Raft" is selected
# If your model has significant bridges or overhang, make sure "Supports" is also selected
=== Loading a file in the printer ===
# Turn on the machine using the switch on the back
# Put in the SD card
# From the main menu, using the rubber-covered button pad next to the LCD display, select "Build from SD"
# Select your file
The machine will now detect its limits, start preheating the extruder, and print your thing.
== Tips and Tweaks==
=== The SD Card doesn't work, what should i do? ===
# The machine is designed to take SD cards 2GB or smaller that are formatted with a FAT16 file system.
# Check the file system on the card you are using.
# for MAC OSX there are instructions here: [http://mtbaldy.us/~dnewman/lor/osx-sd-fat16.html]
# if that doesn't work, there is a formatting utility from SD that can be downloaded here: [https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/]
===Make sure the build platform is leveled===
== Tips and Tweaks ==
=== Make sure the build platform is leveled ===
=== Part not sticking? ===
A good solution is to increase the temperature of the build platform. In the "gcode" tab in ReplicatorG, change the text to set the bed temperature to 118 °C instead of 110º. There will be a line near the top of the file like this: <br />
M109 S110 T0 (set HBP temperature)<br />
M109 S110 T0 (set HBP temperature)<br />
It might also say T1 instead of T0, but the important thing is that it is set to 118º. Save the file once you've made the changes, then proceed to save it as an S3G for the SD card.
It might also say T1 instead of T0, but the important thing is that it is set to 118º. Save the file once you've made the changes, then proceed to save it as an S3G for the SD card.
===Preheat while slicing your model===
=== Preheat while slicing your model ===
Preheating is activated from a menu on the Replicator's front LCD and control buttons. The machine will begin to cool immediately after finishing a part, so if you more parts to print, you should activate preheating again.
[[Category:Fabrication]]