Difference between revisions of "Jalenko Burn-out Furnace"
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| + | ==Operation== | ||
| + | *Ensure that burn out tray is in place | ||
| + | *Plug in | ||
| + | *Turn Dial clockwise past off | ||
| + | *Select desired temperature (0 is hottest, 10 is coldest) | ||
| + | |||
| + | {|class="wikitable" | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | |Setting | ||
| + | |Approximate Temperature (deg C) | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | |10 | ||
| + | |200 | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | |9.2 | ||
| + | |370 | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | |6.2 | ||
| + | |750 | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | |6.8 | ||
| + | |700 | ||
| + | |} | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Notes== | ||
| + | *This thing holds a temperature pretty well, once you get it dialed in it stays rock steady | ||
| + | *There is no temperature probe at the moment. There is a hole on the back which angles upward and is ~6-7mm diameter. | ||
| + | *Maximum temperature has not be assessed. The above table has most useful values for casting with Kerr Satin Cast 20 investment in our size flasks. | ||
| + | |||
== To-Do == | == To-Do == | ||
| Line 21: | Line 51: | ||
* Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot. | * Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot. | ||
** This would be cool to do with anodized aluminum in the laser --[[User:Dbever|Dbever]] ([[User talk:Dbever|talk]]) 22:19, 11 June 2014 (UTC) | ** This would be cool to do with anodized aluminum in the laser --[[User:Dbever|Dbever]] ([[User talk:Dbever|talk]]) 22:19, 11 June 2014 (UTC) | ||
| + | *Hack together some type of replacement guage | ||
| + | **The old guage was connected to some type of ceramic temperature probe of unknown variety and was disintegrating. If we can get the same type probe it may work again, but more useful would be a digital read out | ||
| + | |||
| − | |||
[[Category:Metalworking]] | [[Category:Metalworking]] | ||
[[Category:Hotmetals]] | [[Category:Hotmetals]] | ||
[[Category:Metal Casting]] | [[Category:Metal Casting]] | ||
Revision as of 02:42, 1 August 2015
 | |
| Owner/Loaner | PS:One |
|---|---|
| Serial Number | ? |
| Make/Model | Jalenko Model IFC |
| Arrival Date | 2013 |
| Usability | yes |
| Contact | Eric Stein |
| Where | hot metals |
| Authorization Needed | no |
| Hackable | no |
| Estimated Value | $70 |
| Host Area | {{{hostarea}}} |
Operation
- Ensure that burn out tray is in place
- Plug in
- Turn Dial clockwise past off
- Select desired temperature (0 is hottest, 10 is coldest)
| Setting | Approximate Temperature (deg C) |
| 10 | 200 |
| 9.2 | 370 |
| 6.2 | 750 |
| 6.8 | 700 |
Notes
- This thing holds a temperature pretty well, once you get it dialed in it stays rock steady
- There is no temperature probe at the moment. There is a hole on the back which angles upward and is ~6-7mm diameter.
- Maximum temperature has not be assessed. The above table has most useful values for casting with Kerr Satin Cast 20 investment in our size flasks.
To-Do
- Make some graphs of how fast it will typically heat up over time given different settings and flasks.
- Get new ceramic drip tray (current one is cracked)
- Put the PS1 equipment label on a hard tag and wire it to the power cord (affixing it to the equipment itself is unfeasible, it gets too hot.
- Hack together some type of replacement guage
- The old guage was connected to some type of ceramic temperature probe of unknown variety and was disintegrating. If we can get the same type probe it may work again, but more useful would be a digital read out